Despite the best efforts of a whole team of people, mistakes slip through. They’re sneaky like that. I’m sorry. I’ll post notes here to help clarify anything I find out about.
If you think you’ve found something not listed here, email me (hunter at pantsville press dot com will find me) and I’ll do what I can to help.
- Filemot In the key, the text next to the purple dark border should say “Repeat these 24 stitches as needed” (not 20 stitches).
- Artifice The pattern text should say “Work the Chart, repeating the 20 rows surrounded by the thick border…” (not 10 rows).
- Subterfuge The notes section on page 51 should have had instructions for make 1 right knitwise (and the instructions for make 1 left purlwise should not be there). The instructions for make 1 right knitwise should read: With your left needle, lift the strand of yarn between the last stitch you worked and the stitch you would normally work next from the back to the front. Knit into the loop created by the strand of yarn you just picked up.
Fine Things for Plain Occasions
- Treacherous Winds Rows 6 and 7 of the chart should not have any purl stitches showing. Change the stitches in columns 2, 3, 7, and 8 on rows 6 and 7 of the Main Chart from purls to knits.
The Knitter's Curiosity Cabinet
- Crocus vernus Mitts: When you work row 15 of the Main Chart, or row 16 of the Hand Chart, slip the very first stitch of the round over to your left needle without working it. It will get used up when you work the final double decrease of the round.
- Pinus silvestris Socks: The left and right set up rounds tell you to “K 10 [14, 19].” In both cases, it should actually say “K 10 [14, 18].”
- Linaria bipartita Shawl: The central stitch on row 2 of the edge chart needs to be a 5-into-1 decrease, not a 3-into-1 decrease. There is a great video demonstrating this technique here.
The Knitter's Curiosity Cabinet, Volume II
- Vanessa antiopa cowl: The stitches on either side of the central double decrease should be blank (ie, no stitch) squares instead of knit stitches. That is, row 2, columns 4, 6, 18, and 20 should show solid gray squares on the chart (to indicate no stitch) instead of knit stitches.
- Polyommatus argiolus sock: Row 11 of the heel flap should start Sl1, p14 (it currently says k14). Row 12 of the heel flap should start Sl1, k15 (it currently says p15).
The Knitter's Curiosity Cabinet, Volume III
- Conferva villosa Sock: This is an example of how a very small error can take a lot of space to explain. Bear with me though, as the idea is very simple. On the heel flap, you’re really decreasing away 4 stitches (instead of 2 mentioned in the pattern). The updated chart is below (the left and right sock will now use the same chart) to show you how to do it. Decreasing away 4 stitches means the total remaining for the rest of the heel flap is really 27 [30, 33], and so the heel turn instructions have to change accordingly. They should read: For all sizes: Row 1 (WS): Sl1, p15 [16, 17], p2tog, p1. Row 2 (RS): Sl1, k6 [5, 4], ssk, k1. Row 3 (WS): Sl1, p7 [6, 5], p2tog, p1. Row 4 (RS): Sl1, k8 [7, 6], ssk, k1. Row 5 (WS): Sl1, p9 [8, 7], p2tog, p1. Row 6 (RS): Sl1, k10 [9, 8], ssk, k1. Row 7 (WS): Sl1, p11 [10, 9], p2tog, p1. Row 8 (RS): Sl1, k12 [11, 10], ssk, k1. Row 9 (WS): Sl1, p13 [12, 11], p2tog, p1. Row 10 (RS): Sl1, k14 [13, 12], ssk, k1. For Medium and Large, as above plus: Row 11 (WS): Sl1, p– [14, 13], p2tog, p1. Row 12 (RS): Sl1, k– [15, 14], ssk, k1. For Large, as above plus: Row 13 (WS): Sl1, p– [–, 15], p2tog, p1. Row 14 (RS): Sl1, k– [–, 16], ssk, k1. 17 [18, 19] stitches remain.
- Fucus asparagoides Sock: On the cuff chart, row 5, stitch 2 should be a knit through the back loop.
- Planorbis corneus Sock: In the toe instructions, the first two sentences of the last paragraph should read “Work these 2 rounds 3 [6, 7, 11] times, 38 [38, 38, 38] stitches remain. Work the decrease round 5 more times, 18 [18, 18, 18] stitches remain.
- Serpula contortuplicata Mitt: For both the Left and Right Hand Charts, only the very first stitch of the row should be slipped. Don’t slip any other stitches of the row.
- Bunodes crassicornis Sock: On the main chart, row 12 should be labeled Row A. Row 24 should be labeled Row B.
- Ruction Mitts: Wrist Chart, Rows 13, 14, and 15, Stitches 4, 5, and 6, should have the slip 3 as if to purl with yarn to WS symbol.
Silk Road Socks (1st edition)
- Gördes: Chart C, Row 5, Stitches 13, 14, 19, and 20 should be purl stitches.
- Afshari: The Chart Notes are for Chart B, not Chart A.
- Senneh: A paragraph break is missing. All the information you need is there, it’s just a bit hard to see. The line reading “Alternate Decrease Round and Non-Decrease Round until you have 64 stitches” should have been it’s own paragraph (instead of at the end of the “Left Non-Decrease Round” section.) Chart B Left has errors. The right most cables on rows 8, 9, 17, 18, 19 should be c1l purl twist (slip 1 to cable needle, hold cable needle in front, purl 1, knit 1 through the back loop from cable needle). On row 7, stitch 8 should be a purl stitch. Chart C Right has an error. Stitches 7-11 on row 1, 8-10 on row 2, and 9 on row 3 should be knits, not purls.
- Mood: Row 2 of the heel flap is really a right side row, not a wrong side row. The stitches are correct as described.
- Heriz: The background of Chart D should be purl stitches, as in Chart C.
- Mashad: On Chart E, the four knit stitches shown on row 1 column 19, row 3 column 20, row 5 column 21, and row 7 column 22 should actually be k2tog tbl.